MUD: what I learnt this week (8+9)
These past two weeks have been less about full-face application, and more about detail.
Last week we contoured the face structure itself, so the cheek, jaw and forehead area.
Then this week we learnt about “the perfect brow”, and how it doesn’t need to be defined by one set of rules.
Yes we learnt the techniques for applying contour, such as the shadowed area under the cheekbone should be like a cilinder.
So you blend the shadow out toward the top, rather than the bottom.
And to minimize rolls, you’d apply a dark shade right on top of the chubby chubby, then blend it out toward the surrounding areas.
However our teacher also mentioned that there’s no need for countouring 24/7 on everyone.
I enjoy how she makes us think logically.
It’s a very style – and person related thing.
Someone with a very long face and high cheekbones won’t benefit much from contouring along the cheekbone.
Except for when more depth and drama is needed for a particular look or shoot for example.
Or when you wear a ponytail for pictures, you might need some contouring along the forehead to make it recede.
Even though your forehead isn’t ridiculously big.
But she mainly meant: look at the structure of your face, and the purpose and just analyze what you want to recede and bring forward.
If you have a very round face, instead of just applying contour under the cheekbone and along the jawline, try pulling that shadow all the way down from under the cheekbone.
The dark shading will push that area back, and *poof* a leaner face appears.
Or for very lean faces: try pulling in that shadow from under your cheekbone, and pointing it up a little toward your nose, that will create rounder cheeks.
However it’s a real art to shade in a way that it’s barely noticeable in daily life.
If you really want to change features, you will have to use a fairly heavy coverage contour.
Which is generally more appropriate for shoots, film and stage.
This was a bit of an annoying subject, for here in Belgium at least.
To pluck even one hair in this country you need a specific permit.
So the MUD-handbook did cover the steps you would take to pluck someone’s eyebrows, but we would never be allowed to do it.
Then a second thing is that the book described a very American way of plucking. ;D
Which I love, it’s very efficient.
But as our teacher said, us mere Belgian folk aren’t quite ready for that yet LOL.
A lot of clients even pull weird faces here apparently when you suggest filling in their brows.
But us MUD-people will make that happen! Oh yes! >:D
“Us MUD people”, right.
No, make-up is all about taste but it can look so beautiful though I think, a filled in brow.
The filling gives it a little extra definition, lift and oomph!
Not evil, oomph!
Anywho i’ll elaborate on the plucking issue in a minute!
First let’s talk about:
The technique I used before focused around placing a pencil from my nostril toward the tearduct, right next to my pupil, and toward the outer corner.
Why did I use that?
I saw everyone doing it on Youtube!
However the technique we saw now is this one:
Put a pencil straight next to your tearduct.
This is where your brows “should” start.
However if your eyes are too close to each other, or too wide-set, try playing around with the space between the brows.
A more narrow gap will make your eyes appear more close-set.
Following along the line of your lower lashline, where liquid liner would be, extend that and that’s the place your brow should end.
Don’t pay too much attention to the nose.
(Because if you have a crooked nose like me, that means the two sides would have to be different…)
Take the pencil and place it right next to your iris in a straight line, where your brow crosses with it is where your arch will be.
This creates a massive difference for me, arch-wise.
It would mean my arch moves a bit more to the front.
And to be honest, that would make a ton more sense.. I always saw something not quite right with my brows.
Just because my nose has a different position, doesn’t mean my arch should be this far out.
The brows start and end on the same height.
Now, as for the American way of plucking!
First a description of the perfect brow then!
The shape of the brow should be straight, but gradually moving up at the base (so no curvy start of any kind), toward the arch which is the highest point.
Then down with the same length your brow has before the arch.
And ending at exactly the same height as the base.
With these shape-rules in mind, technically you might have to pluck away half of your brows or more to keep inside of the “perfect brow” shape, and then fill in the rest.
To get that absolute brow shape.
Unless you have bushy brows, you guys are the lucky SOBs. You can just wax away everything outside of the norm and *BAM*.
But a ton of people just don’t have hair growing in the right place technically.
And if you’re not scared (why would you be, anyone can do it) try mapping the perfect brow shape for you with an eyepencil, tweeze everything that doesn’t fit in, and fill in what’s left!
But that way of tweezing and filling in doesn’t quite fit into the casual way of living here.
That doesn’t mean you can’t get a flattering brow though for your facial structure.
Play up the arch, tweeze the strays and make sure the base or your brow is even, and that it starts and ends at the right spot.
Once again thanks for reading, I try to put effort into these posts and I hope it’s a bit clear!
I don’t have teaching skills you see!! ;)
Posted on March 7, 2013, in Box o' appearance, Cosmetics and tagged cheekbone, cilinder, contour, cosmetics, eyebrow, forehead, how to, jawline, lesson, make-up, MUD, recap, school, shape, tips, tweeze. Bookmark the permalink. 5 Comments.