MUD: what I learnt this week (3+4)
I have another recap for you.
This time i’m combining the 3rd and 4th week, because last week was purely about practicing our base applications.
(And playing around with all of the MUD shadows, we had access to all, heehee)
As for the fourth week, we got a taste of correctors and concealers.
Easily one of the most interesting things for me!
There’s something about going back and forth between the colorwheel to even out someone’s face that makes me excited.
Let alone having a completely clear canvas to start from, for eyeshadow application.
Corrector vs concealer
Certain unevenness can be covered up with concealer, which is really nothing more than an uberpigmented foundation.
If whatever you’re trying to cover up isn’t too pigmented that can work.
However when working with discoloration, cancelling out the shade you’re fighting requires a lot less product, and can often look more natural.
Compared to packing on loads of fleshtone concealer.
But then what shade to use is up next!
To cancel out a shade means using its opposite.
For example when struggling with a blue hue onder your eyes, try using an orange (peach), or if it’s more purple try a more yellowy hue.
Things like that.
In my dark circles post I mentioned using this technique every single day, it works miracles!
(If it’s bags you want to get rid of check my anti-panda post)
Besides correcting the skin, there’s certain situations on TV and shoots where you might have to counterbalance certain lighting as well.
Or match the skin on actors to make them fit in.
At this point Nathalie had a funny anecdote at the ready, which you’d only really know about if you’re in the make up or film business I think.
Well I had no idea in any case! :)
Back when TV transitioned to HDTV, all of a sudden all the newscasters looked orange here.
Apparently this was because the camera used to pull all of the color from their faces, so the MUAs would cope with that by deliberately making the skin darker and more orange.
But of course with HD cameras a whole different approach was needed LOL!
This lasted for quite a while hehe.
Oompa loompas on TV, and confused MUAs behind it.
What products to use
That’s 100% up to you, it doesn’t need to be a vivid green/orange/blue either.
I used to work with very pigmented products on myself, to counteract fast and in one go.
However for HD sake, we now learnt to use natural looking (flesh colored with a correcting tint to it) correctors that actually do look completely skin-like still in real life.
And because those creams were lightweight and very buildable, layering them for more coverage worked very well.
As for formulation, that’s completely personal taste!
Cream products are oh so pigmented, and work lovely for people like me for example.
People who don’t have a ton of discoloration all over, but need that super pigmented corrector in specific places.
Liquids, like green primers for example, are nice, but way less pigmented.
Great if you struggle with red skin all over, and you’d just like to neutralize that a bit before applying your foundation.
However those won’t work for crap if you have an actual patch.
I really need a cream corrector next to my eyes for my red patches, if i’d try patting some green primer on there.. well that would be a nice sight!
I’d be trying to build that coverage for years to come.
The third option would be corrector powders, if you have very red cheeks those would be perfect to just buff over your foundation afterwards.
However once again, for actual local patches of discoloration, good luck with that!
Hmm.. I think that’s all of them.
How to apply them
That depends on two factors, what type of issue you’re dealing with and what type of corrector you’ll be using.
When it comes to liquids and creams, you can either apply them before or after foundation.
After foundation means you will need less product, because part of the problem will be covered up already.
However if you’re working with an extremely pigmented corrector, underneath might be better to not see the product anymore.
If you do want to apply your pigmented corrector on top, try mixing some in with your foundation to get a softer finish.
This is lovely under the eyes I think.
As for powder, either top your foundation with it or use a powder foundation.
That way you’re able to place a powder corrector underneath that or on top.
And that’s it!
Then we practiced, practiced and practiced some moar.
I hope that made sense?
My mind feels like a maze sometimes.
Thanks for reading! :D
If you go to a MUD-shop by the way, they will offer you free personal advice as to what concealer or corrector shade to use. At least they do here.
Posted on January 28, 2013, in Box o' appearance and tagged base, class, complementary, complexion, concealer, corrector, cream, even, learnt, liquid, MUA, powder, primer, recap, summary, what learned, what's new. Bookmark the permalink. 11 Comments.